You will build up some lead in your system but there are safe levels., just like arsenic and radiation. Just dont breath too many fumes and try not to rub the solder on your skin. (Im using it on my speedo) But if you want to sell a product thats RoHS, yea you need to use lead free solder. You can use leaded solder on electrical products and your own home projects. Plumbers solder is lead free because its used on water pipes. Well nothing wrong with leaded solder there. OOhhhhhh right, you want to put a nipple on some cables. Solder would leave some permanent scaring and burns. People usually start off with hot wax on there nipples, if theyre into that sort of thing. The jap alloy "nipples" are cast onto a prepared mushroomed cable. New cable however is a joy, a regular weekend job from the weekend bikers with broken cables 150 miles from home at the time, regular a clockwork with out fail, usually just before finishing time on a sunday!! Note, the oe jap "braided" cables of the 60/70/80/90's etc was a real bugger to clean, it tended to trap any lube that was there, or wasn't, as the cables where usually broken right by the handle bar lever nipple end. The bigger the copper iron the better, more heat transfer, don't forget about the damp clean rag and be careful about the fumes. Get a good wire cable cutter like a felco or similar and prepare the cable out also. Note, you ate supposed to clean the cable etc, where its tinned and/or soldered. a large copper soldering iron and camping gas stove or similar is best, when the flame turns green, the copper iron is ready. Tinmans, as mentioned bakers fluid, also fluxite, don't forget to "mushroom" the cable end, as that and the solder stops the cable from "pulling thru", and "tin" the cable and nipple. I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. That's when you find out everything you want to know.” “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. It's corrosive.Īlso remember someone on this forum lost the sight in one eye soldering so goggles. The trick is in getting the end of the cable unravelled correctly in the nipple and not tinning the cable too far below the nipple creating a stress point.īakers fluid is best, especially if you're putting a nipple on old cable but I use normal flux for making new ones. Although I usually use a fine file to remove any excess solder Lead based solder can be "shaped" somewhat afterwards with a soldering iron as it does have a kind of plastic phase. Heat the nipple with a microblowlamp, dip in flux then dip in solder, it should suck it up if you got the temperature right. Get the solid lumps/thick coils of lead tin solder. Test cable under high pressure before using. Pass cable through narrow side, and splay the strands out on the wide side before soldering. The hole in the nipple is wider on one side than the other. Common solders will not work on stainless steel cables.The art of soldering a cable nipple is an art in itself. I seem to remember that 60/40 solder is called eutectic solder. 50/50 would do the job but is slightly harder to work with. This ratio is chosen primarily because this solder "wets" the workpiece easily, and flows easily due to capilliary action. If you have some old stock electrical solder, it is very likely to be 60/40. Solder containing lead is nowadays less common that years ago, as it is considered more as a health hazard than it used to be. If we are talking about brake cables, or to a lesser extent clutch or throttle cables, proceed with caution as safety is at stake. I assume from your posting that you are planning to make a cable or some cables that are not otherwise available off the shelf. Oh and also, I'll probably get some "Bakers fluid" as it seems to be the go to flux - unless I go the epoxy route - but it's £10+, any alternative? A 2 part epoxy avec metal shaving dust a lá JB Weld.Īny help appreciated, I'm sure someone on here will have done this act before. A "bar" of plumbers lead off ebay, which may be 60/40, unlisted, or god knows.ĥ. Fluxed electrical solder i've got kicking around somewhere.ģ. Does it matter too much? The key seems to be making the cable knotted enough that it won't pull through easily without the solder anyway.ġ. Plus nowhere seems to list the make-up of "plumbers solder", it's either unleaded, or tin/lead but no mention of whether it's 60/40, 50/50 etc (not on screwfix/toolstation anyway). I've read around the internets a bit and it sounds like something I want to do, but the more you read the internet the more confusing, clear, then confusing things get. But what type to use?! Can I get away with using leaded plumbers solder from screwfix/toolstation/somewhere like that? As per title I want to warm up my nipples and dip them in molten solder.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |